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Now look into
the back, upper left of the engine and you will
see a plastic gear. This is what you are going
to remove. You will also see a metal arm with
an elbow in it coming from the top of the engine.
You will need to remove this too. |
| Govenor gear
and metal elbow |
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Disconnect the linkage from
the metal arm at the top of the engine. You
can try to slide the metal arm down and out of the
engine, but chances are it will hit the crank.
Pull the metal arm up from the top of the engine
until it stops and cut it with a hacksaw, dremel
cutting wheel or bolt cutters. Now pull the
remainder of the arm down and out of the engine.
There is a washer on the arm. Make sure this
washer also gets removed. |
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With the metal arm out of
the way, it's time to pull the plastic gear out.
There is a plastic cap in front of the plastic gear
that you can pull out with a pair of needle nose
pliers. There is a thin, flat washer between
this plastic cap and plastic gear. Make sure
you get this washer so it doesn't end up loose in
your engine. |
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Grab the plastic gear with
a large pair of pliers or vice grips and pull the
gear off. Note: the plastic gear is
held on with a small clip ring so it takes a bit
of force to pull off the gear. You can also
use a thin flathead screwdriver and a hammer to
dislodge or bend the clip ring making it easier
to remove the gear. Make sure you find the
metal clip ring and remove it from the motor.
There is another flat washer behind the gear.
Make sure you get that too! |
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With this garbage out
of your engine, you can plug the hole on the top
of your engine case where the metal arm was.
A self-taping 1/4"-20 bolt works very well. |
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| Here are the
govenor parts you just removed |
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Govenor arms
removed and hole plugged |
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If using a billet rod, you
will also need to remove the low oil sensor.
Remove the sensor and plug the hole with a 3/8"
x 1 bolt and copper washer. If you are not
using a billet rod, I recommend leaving the sensor
in place, but disconnect it by cutting/unplugging
the yellow wire on the outside of the motor.
The sensor should be disconnected because when you
drive around corners, the oil will flow to one side
of the engine and the sensor will shut the engine
down. |
| Low oil sensor |
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Now it's time to start putting
your engine back together. If your push rods
fell out during the govenor removal process, slide
them back into place. Make sure they contact
the rocker arms correctly in the rocker arm dimple.
Now slide the lifters into place. Nothing
complicated here. Just slide the lifters into
their holes and they will contact the push rods.
Now you want to slide the cam into place.
Make sure the lifters are now riding on top of the
cam lobes. |
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Push rods, lifters
and cam |
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It's
very important to have the cam and crank gears aligned
properly. You will see a round, dimple punch mark
on the cam gear and crank gear. These dimple marks
need to match up when the two gears mesh together.
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| Cam and crank
gear dimple marks |
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After everything is lined
up check to make sure the inside of the engine case
is clean. Check the push rods and make sure
they are making contact with the rocker arms in
the correct location. Now bolt up the side
cover. If the engine is new you can re-use
your gasket. If the engine is used you will
want to replace the gasket. Use a torque wrench
and tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern to
17ft.-lbs. |
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With the engine side cover
bolted back on, turn the engine over and watch the
valves as they open and close to make sure everything
is operating smoothly. Now you need to set
the valve lash. Actually, after taking our
the govenor, you should upgrade to stiffer valve
springs. This is a good time to remove the
stock springs. |
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| Make sure the piston
is at TDC on the compression stroke. |
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Slide the rocker arms off
of the valves and turn them to the side. You
do not need to remove the rocker arms. Just
turn them to the side. Use a length of rope
to stuff into the combustion chamber with as much
rope as you can push in there. This will prevent
the valves from dropping into the chamber. |
| Rocker arms are
turned to the side and rope is in the spark plug hole. |
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Push the valve spring and
retainer down and position them so you can slide
them up, off the tip of the valve. Now replace
the stock valve springs with stiffer valve springs.
We use 18lb valve springs with stock cams and 26lb
springs with high performance cams. Slide
the rocker arms back over the valves. Remove
the rope from the chamber. |
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Now you need to use a feeler
gauge to set the valve lash. This is the distance
between the rocker arm and the valve. Make
sure your engine is still set at top dead center
before setting the valve lash. We set our
valve lash at 0.002" intake and 0.003"
exhaust. After the valve lash has been set,
turn the engine over a few times and recheck.
When everything checks out okay, you can put the
valve cover back on. |
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Setting the valve
lash |
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Now you can remove all of
the original throttle linkage and springs that used
to be connected to the govenor. We remove
the whole metal plate and stock hand throttle system.
We use some of the govenor parts to fabricate a
new throttle linkage that is much cleaner. |
| Throttle linkage |
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Now you can replace the tank,
muffler, spark plug and air filter box. |
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We hope our instructions
were helpful. Don't forget to put oil in your
engine before starting it. Have fun with your
extra power! Performance
information for your Honda GX160, GX200, GX340, GX390,
Blue OHV clone provided by AGK. |